Sunday, 13 November 2016

Water, Water, Everywhere - Elan Valley Packrafting & Backpacking

Outside of the Lake District the Elan Valley area of mid Wales has probably the most concentrated expanse of water in England & Wales, so it seemed logical to bring my packraft on a weekend solo backpacking in mid September.  My two day route is shown below - blue shows the boggy bits and yellow the packraft legs - so I spent the majority of the weekend in or on water!

With the extra weight of packraft, paddle and buoyancy aid my pack weight was around 12kg.  It was my first trip with my new Anfibio Ultimate paddle from  The 5-piece adjustable carbon paddle was a joy to use compared to my old plastic/alloy basic paddle.  As well as being adjustable the extra stiffness was immediately noticeable, as was the 'catch'- how the paddle enters the water.  The paddle also doubled up as a super-stiff and adjustable centre pole for my SL3 mid shelter.  The dual-use theme continuing by using the packraft as a groundsheet in the tent and my inflatable Anfibio Buoy Boy buoyancy-aid helping with pillow duties.

Rather than a write-up I put together a short video below - it can also be viewed at

Elan Valley Packrafting from Nigel Gray on Vimeo.

Packrafting route - Elan Valley

Saturday, 5 November 2016

Black (or was it Grey) Mountain Wildcamp

An 's' and around 40 miles separate the Black Mountains and the Black Mountain which mark the eastern and western extremes of the Brecon Beacon national park.  A Thursday business trip to Cardiff was an ideal opportunity to visit the western Brecon Beacons - the Black Mountain - for the first time.  Online photos of the ridge showed the gentle hills to the south abruptly ending in steep-sided cliffs dropping to remote cyms, an escarpment that is repeated further east by Pen-y-fan.

Finding a safe spot for the car is always a challenge when spending a few days in the hills. I eventually settled on emailing Dderi Farm near Glyntewe who allowed me to park for a small fee. A longer than expected meeting in Cardiff saw me shooting up the Rhondda valley along the A470 conscious of the nights drawing in. Finding the farm I quickly changed, chucked my food provisions into my pack and headed for the start of the footpath that heads up to Llyn y Fan Fawr from the pub in Glyntewe.

The ground was rather mushy and it was only a matter of time before that inevitable misplaced step led to the first slush of cold water into my shoes - a few seconds of shock being the price to pay for wearing unlined trail shoes.  I was feeling rather sluggish and hadn't taken too much notice of the distance up to the lake.  The hills ahead were already enveloped in low cloud as forecast and with the light fading quickly it was clear my planned destination wasn't going to materialise unless I continued traipsing in the dark.  The path followed a small stream which cascaded over a number of mini waterfalls.  Keeping an eye out for a camping spot I deviated several times but to no avail. Continuing further up, the path crossed the stream and to the left was a small patch of relatively flat ground.  I continued up for a few minutes but as the path veered away from the stream I hit more boggy ground and reeds so I decided to head back to the spot by the stream, which as it turned out was the perfect size for my GoLite SL3.

I pitched in strengthening wind and rain and settled in for a long dark evening.  Expecting colder autumn weather I'd brought a BearPaw Wilderness Design inner for the SL3 - I normally don't bother with an inner - but it was surprisingly mild for late October.  Despite a strong wind through the night it never dropped below 10 degrees in the tent.  I'd brought my new Spot Gen 3 satellite tracker and sent a couple of OK messages to let the other half know I was safe and sound before tucking into a pasta mug-shot and chorizo before drifting to sleep.

I awoke to a clear view down into the valley.  I was a little disappointed that I hadn't made much progress the night before and I could still see the farm where I parked, and hear dogs barking.  Breaking camp I could see the higher ground of Fan Fir was shrouded in cloud.  Plodding upwards a glint of light reflecting in a small pool marked an occasional break in the clouds but the mood changed as a bleak looking Llyn y Fan Fawr came into view.  Flanked by the steep cliffs of Fan Fir to the left, Llyn y Fan Fawr is the larger of the two llyns, hence the Fawr suffix.

Heading around the eastern shore the path continued north. Visibility detiorated for a while as the path hugged the side of the valley below the cliffs.  Stopping to photograph a narrow gulley I completely missed a path marked on the map that somehow hops up to the ridge above.  Eventually Llyn y Fan Fach came into view, nestled in a cirque of cliffs and the small bothy.  I lunched by the lake, the steep route ahead masking its destination in the cloud.  A short slog upwards and I was up on the ridge but visibility down to 20 meters.  

I had originally planned to head further south from the summit but the clear path around Waun Lefrith made for easy navigation, despite the grey abyss to my left.

The summit cairn of Banana Sir Gaer came quickly but the mist and a rising wind meant it was no place to stop.  I headed on, past Fan Foel, ruing the weather that masked what would surely be such a stunning view.  I crouched in the lee of the shelter wall before winding around to the indistinct 802m summit of Fan Brycheiniog.  It wasn't long before I came to the stepped path at Bwlch Giedd that drops from the ridge back down to Llyn y Fan Fawr.

 The lake gradually appeared out of the mist quicker than I expected.  With a northerly wind whipping down the lake I scoured around looking for a suitable camp spot, heading all along the eastern shore to no avail and returning to the southernmost point where I pitched on boggy tussocks.

Jetboil cooking
Cooking becomes a welcome chore on long dark damp winter evening. Of late I've taken to buying £1 pasta packets and spicing them up with chorizo or tuna.  Frying some chopped chorizo bits added some welcome zing and crush to tomato and herb pasta mix.  I made a mental note to add dried mushrooms, herbs and chilli oil for next time.

A breezy and wet night was even milder than the night before, my Suunto showing 13 degrees during the night.   I awoke to no change in the mood and after breakfast stuffed a soaking shelter into the outside mesh pocket of my pack.

The launder back down the valley was around 4km and as I dropped out of the clouds golden hues reminded me that autumn was here.  Passing my camp spot from the night before I noticed that the berry tree that 36 hours earlier had looked resplendent in bright red baubels was now bare and clumps of berries clung to the edge of the stream below.

Another 30 mins and I was back at the car and changing as the rain returned.  The low cloud has spoiled the views but after a busy few weeks at work it was great to clear my head and lungs. I shall definitely return, there's still plenty to see (literally) and explore.

You can view my @socialhiking track here.

I also uploaded a short video montage

Black Mountain Oct16 from Nigel Gray on Vimeo.

Tuesday, 8 December 2015

Suunto Traverse GPS Watch - First Impressions

I was one of several people to have recently been invited by Suunto to test their new Suunto Traverse GPS watch.  As a long term user of a Suunto Core that accompanies me on my outdoor adventures I was curious to see whether the addition of GPS in a watch was a worthwhile addition or a compromise of size and battery-life.

The Suunto Traverse arrived in smart packaging - not up to Apple's impeccable standards - but typical Suunto.  Unable to specify a preferred colour I received the graphite version which although looking darker in photos is actually a lightish grey which can sometimes have a brownish/green hint in certain light.  It's probably the most anonymous of the range which also includes black (with silver bevel), amber (which is dark grey with orange strap) and white.

My first thought was how compact the watch is for a GPS-equipped device.  Previous Suunto GPS watches, including the recent Ambit, have been characterised by their noticeable bulk primarily from the need to incorporate an external aerial for reliable GPS reception.  On the Ambit there is a noticable protrusion onto the wrist-strap that houses the antenna.   The Traverse is the first Suunto watch to use a new type of GPS aerial that's embedded within bezel.  This makes for a far more compact design, in fact  I was surprised to find it's not much larger than my old non-GPS Core.

Out of the box I ignored the Quick-Start guide provided and dived straight in to the set-up process.  The Traverse has a relatively straightforward menu system, using the right-hand side buttons for up/down/select navigation through the menus.  Anyone with experience of previous Suunto watches will fee immediately at home, but it's straightforward for new users too.   Having an Apple Watch as my daily watch I quickly resisted the urge to tap on the screen and whizzed through the relatively simple menu.
In fact I was slightly surprised that there weren’t more options/functions to bamboozle me, however here it's evident that Suunto have purposely distilled the options and removed a number of the more specialist multi-sport functions that can be found on the Ambit.  These are more aligned to training/althete needs (for a comprehensive review of the Ambit 3 take a look at the excellent DC Rainmaker website,whereas the Traverse is clearly a more focused outdoor activity watch.   By adding GPS to the usual altimeter/baromter/compass functionality it delivers something akin to a Suunto Core on steroids.   For me that’s a good thing as it includes the functions I’d find I need and are practical when hiking/climbing/exploring but without the bloat of functions I wouldn't use.   In common with a growing trend the Traverse also incorporates Bluetooth connectivity to you smartphone, allowing basic notification of messages/alert direct to your wrist.

On the wrist the Traverse has a chunky and robust look - it fits rather well with the current fashion for over-size watches even if it's size its out of necessity rather than design.  The Traverse certainly feels robust without being engendered with excessive heft by a body that appears to be made of a sturdy composite and a stainless steel bevel.  The rubbery strap appears similar to other Sunnto straps in terms of size/fit which suggests it would be simple to swap straps to suit your taste.

Suunto Traverse GPS GraphiteSuunto Traverse GPS Graphite

I downloaded the Suunto Movescount app to my iPhone and completed a painless set-up and sync process.  I wasn't familiar with the Movescount portal but as well as being able to edit/control various watch settings, also allows you to log and share your activity/routes on a more social basis. it also allows you create routes and/or /POI’s and upload them to your watch.

Battery life is a typical weak area for smartwatches - I currently have to charge my Apple Watch nightly - so I was unsure how the Suunto would fair.  The USB charging lead has a spring-loaded calm to the side of the watch - I guess a plug-in connection would have made in more difficult to seal the unit - as it is, the watch is certified as waterproof to 100m.   Leaving for work with the watch 100% charged I arrived home after a days use, including receiving many notifications, to find the battery at 96%.   Obviously I wasn’t using GPS but even so thats a pretty impressive battery life.  The specs show a 100hr battery life when using GPS so plenty for a long weekend adventure or backpack.

First Outing
My first outing was due to be a trip to the Lakes last weekend but Storm Desmond had other ideas so I was limited to a meander around Richmond Park to give the Traverse its first outing.   Starting a log was a simple press-and-hold affair and the watch confirmed a GPS fix almost immediately.  I'm used to the altimeter and compass functions of my Core but the use of GPS on the Traverse affords a rich array of trip data - distance, speed, pace, altitude, height gained/lost - with you able to customise the screen views to display the info you want. A breadcrumb display shows your route so far and a track-back options allows you to re-trace your steps.  Adding a POI as you are moving is another simple case of press-hold a single button.

At the end of the walk I sync'ed the watch to the Movescount app, whereupon my track was automatically uploaded.  Within the app you are able to view a map view and several graphs with selectable metrics.  Log-in to your Movescount account on a browser and you have the option to also export your GPX track to use with alternate software/services.  You can also import or create tracks and upload them to the Traverse, though the Movescount app only includes Google mapping - if you wanted to use OS mapping for route-planning you would need to do that in another app and export the GPX track in order to import to your Movescount app and then onto your watch.

In summary, my initial impressions of the Suunto Traverse are positive. It's a definite step forward in terms of functionality from my battered old Core, and the addition of the GPS function adds usability without unduly compromising size or battery-life.  Increasingly devices/hardware are being integrated with software services to deliver an overall 'experience' and the Suunto Traverse is fairly reliant on the Suunto Movescount service via app and web. Thankfully Movescount is pleasantly functional - it may not suit the power-user - but it offers the basics in a user-friendly manner.  OS mapping integration, allowing you to plot routes on OS mapping, would  make it even better, particularity given the target market for the Traverse.  Hopefully if the weather plays ball I'll get chance to take it on a proper outing in the next few weeks.

Disclaimer - I applied and was selected as one of a number of volunteer reviewers to whom Suunto have provided test units for evaluation purposes. The watch remains the property of Suunto during the trial period.

Saturday, 17 October 2015

Video - Lapland Packrafting Wilderness trip

A short video of our week long hiking and packrafting trip across northern Lapland in early September.  Hopefully it will give a sense of what an amazing landscape we traversed - across the north-west finger of Finland and into Norway.

Lapland Packrafting from Nigel Gray on Vimeo.

For more info on our trip see my earlier blog posts below:

     Lapland Packrafting Adventure - Part 1

     Lapland Packrafting Adventure - Part 2

Flickr photos album from our trip here

Thursday, 15 October 2015

Lapland Packrafting Adventure - Part 2

To read Part 1 of our trip click here

To see a video of our trip click here

Day 4 - Varitgielas-Geatkejohka
After a quiet night we left the hut and headed further north-east ascending gently toward the Norwegian border, taking in a detour to inspect an empty border hut.  We crossed a large reindeer fence replete with an excessively sculpted stile,  and set our sights on a visible col on the main ridge which marked the watershed.  This was big country, with big skies and not another soul to be seen.   The undulations in front of us gave clues to the boggy areas so we contoured around, crossing a few small streams until we reached the foot of the ridge.


A steep climb soon found us at the col for a lunch break while we watched a large eagle circling above. After a long rocky descent we eventually we dropped down to a river which necessitated a planned crossing by packraft.  I drew the short-straw and inflated my raft as we took turns to shuttle ourselves across, with Jaakko pulling the raft back each time using a throw-line.

As we'd dropped height we were amongst the tree and the late afternoon sun lent a warm glow to the autumnal lours.  Another hour of boggy ascent found us by a small lake that would mark our campsite for the evening.

Struggling to find a space clear enough to pitch our shelters we were treated to a gloriously technicolour display as the sun descended.  An owl circled the lake as a reddish glow lit up an endless view.


Day 5 - Geatkejohka-Spanigorsa-Nedrefosshytta

We woke to gloriously blue sky.  After another porridge breakfast I was perched behind a rock with trousers down when a heard the cry "Wolverine, wolverine".  I looked up to see Jaakko pointing and turned to see a dark thick-set beast running off behind me.  Apparently it had been coming my way until Jaakko hosted though the sight of me with trousers round my ankles would surely have made it flee!   We broke camp and made our way upwards, contouring around a peak above the lake.

It was clear the landscape was changing - the colours, the increasing trees and more jagged and snowbound mountains in the distance marked our transition from the high Finnish plateau into Norway.


Soon we could see a giant cleft in the landscape in the distance - the Reisandalen - the valley to which we were headed.   As we slowly lost height the reindeer became more plentiful and the birch grew higher.

The final few kilometres saw us dropping lots of height through steep wooded slopes - quite a challenge with the packs and paddles - until we caught sight of the river below us, glinting in the sun.

We stopped above the waterfall at Imofossen before joining a small path - the first sign of human touch for several days - until we reached the hut at Nedrefosshytta.

Perched below the hut, beside the river was a separate little hut - the sauna - so we enjoyed a long relaxing soak, washing out the exertions of the past few days.   The hut was well equipped - and empty - we filled out forms to allow them to charge us via credit-card.  As night fell well I was conscious that we hadn't yet seen the Northern Lights.  The evenings had been too cloudy and I'd already discounted the chance of us seeing them.  A chance look out of the window at around 2130 and we thought we could see something.   Stepping outside into the darkness, the unmistakable sight of the aurora was above us.   We were treated to a glorious show of irides as the aurora danced and jigged around a star-filled sky.


Day 6 - On the Reisa

This was planned as a partial rest day. Ali lounged in the hut while Jaakko and I disinfected the packrafts - a necessity when crossing the watershed to prevent a known disease spreading to the salmon.   I fancied having some fun in the white water further upstream so we walked a few kilometres up with our rafts and jumped into have some fun.  It was all over all to quickly but enough to whet my appetite for more - the Alpackaraft being so buoyant and manoeuvrable.

After lunch we packed up, strapped our packs to the rafts and set off, the plan being to descent 6 or 7km downstream to find a camp spot for the evening.  Immediately we were into faster water, dodging the boulders that hid under the waves.  Eventually we made shore on a gravel bar on a small island with a visible flat campspot.

The clear sky above hinted at a chillier night ahead so we gathered some fire-wood and Jaakko demonstrated his survival and fire-lighting skills by....using a lighter!  Actually the damp wood made it quite a challenge to keep it light but perseverance brought us a roaring flame providing the perfect back-drop for another aurora display.


Day 7 - Heading down Reisendalen to Saraelv

The alarm went off at 6am we were on the water by 7.30.  With the clear blue sky and quiet waters it would have been easy to just drift along without a care in the world, but we had a long stretch ahead of us to meet our organised lift by mid-afternoon.  


The canyon sides soared above us, punctuated by the odd waterfall cascading down.  Suddenly, an eagle dropped on the cliff above, swooped down in front of us and headed off downstream - such a magical moment that put a smile on my face.

We continued downstream the deeper stretches interspersed with faster rocky shallows as the river lost height  We stopped to admire a huge waterfall and after a few more kilometres we came across the first narrow boats that are used by fisherman and day-trippers.  Shortly afterwards we spied a couple of hikers on the feint path by the river - they were heading up to the hut we'd stayed the night before - the people we'd seen for almost 5 days!


As we meandered downstream the river grew wider and deeper, but ever crystal-clear.  We were gradually easing back into civilisation, with the odd hut and river-boat becoming more apparent, until eventually we reached a small car-park that marked the trail-head.  Shortly thereafter we paddled past a house - first human dwelling for 7 days - before rounding another bend where we were greeted by a smiling Timo, our lift.  We'd done it - we'd survived the wilderness and had a great time to boot! We still had a 3-hour car journey winding along the Norwegian coast to return to Kilpisjarvi.  The scenery was stunning.....but I fell asleep with a smile on my face.

It had been a fantastic 7 days off the beaten trail. Tough going in parts, the most weight I'd carried for a sustained time, but the packrafts added an extra dimension to the trip, making the weight worthwhile.

A big thanks to @korpijaakko for helping/guiding and generally putting up with us!  Compared to his usual Arctic guiding this was a walk in the park for Jaakko and with two people pulling out he could easily have cancelled this trip but his knowledge, humour, patience and company was a pleasure..even if Ali would suggest there was just a little too much gear talk between us!

To see a video of our trip click here

Camp sites 3 to 6 (Days 4 - 7)

Sunday, 11 October 2015

Lapland Packrafting Adventure - Part 1

To see a video of our trip click here

We had been deliberating getting away in September and I'd just taken delivery of my new packraft - an Alpackaraft Yukon Yak - when I noticed @korpijaakko was advertising two spare spaces on his week long hike/packraft trip across northern Lapland - starting in the far north-west of Finland and heading wast into Norway.  Several helpful emails later we confirmed our places to find the other two clients had dropped out so we would effectively have a Jaakko as a private guide for the week.

Food rations
Cue a couple of weeks hastily organising gear - finally managing to get hold of his and hers Exped Lightning 60 packs - as well as organising food rations.  I had been pondering choice of shelters, my girlfriend not over-enamoured with the idea of us both squeezing to my one-person Hex Peak mid.  I had been offered the lone of couple of shelters (thanks @outdoorsMH and @vkemec) but at the last minute I ordered a Lux Hex Peak F6 - a larger version of my Hex Peak, which was promptly dispatched from

Jaakko was incredibly helpful with travel logistics, weather forecasting and sanity-checking gear lists and random questions.  Erik the Black's gear spreadsheet was handy for checking stuff off and reckoning our weight.

Leaving Heathrow at a leisurely 1020 on the Saturday we flew to Helsinki before boarding an internal flight to Kittilä  some 1,000 km north, to be met by Jaakko, whose stature and beard meant he wasn't to be missed! After chomping down the worlds largest 'regular' pizza we headed to a nearby log cabin for the evening, spent sorting gear and enjoying a traditional sauna.

Day 1 - Kilpisjärvi to Kuonjarjohka

Exped 60 and Porter 4000 packed for packraftingWe rose early for the three and a half hour drive from Kittilä to Kilpisjärvi  during which I filled in my knowledge of Finland, its mountains and history, between bouts of slumber.  I was surprised to hear that Finland has only 26 peaks over 1,000m, with the highest Halti being 1328m.

Kilpisjarvi felt like a distant outpost, which indeed it was, though the local outdoor shop opened at 11am so I could grab a couple of gas canisters for the Jetboil. We parked the car and spent a nervous few minutes checking we had everything, shoving in an extra layer as the weather had turned wet and cold.

Finally we shouldered our packs - fully laden we were around 20kg - and trudged off up the path around 1230. Today was to be longest day - over 20km - which coincided with our heaviest pack weight.  

The first part of the route followed an established route north-west, crossing the border with Norway for a short time before heading back in to Finland.  A combination of the pack weight and a path that alternated between rock-hoppping and bog-hopping meant it was hard-work, especially after the early start and long drive. As we gained height the trees had thinned out to mainly dwarf birch until even they petered out.  Our first wildlife was a few lemmings  scurrying under some duck-boards across a boggy patch.  Shouldn't they be at the coast throwing themselves into the sea....?

Lapland packrafting

Finally we reached a small open hut at Saarijarvi and at 4pm it seemed an opportune time for a late lunch.

From here we continued gaining height, the feint path shown by marker posts every 20m or so.   The view and the sky just opened up to give our first real taste of taste of the scale of the wildnerness into which we were heading.

The path seemed to go on for ever and the packs seemed to be getting heavier as we continued to head up over a rocky pass before eventually started a long descent into valley.   We had to cross a small river and as the only one without waterproof boots I carefully picked my way across some stones, only to slip on the final step and fill both boots with icy cold water.  Some 20 mins later the small hut at Kuonjarjohka came into view, replete with tiny outhouse.

A few small tents were scattered around - mainly Hilleberg - but it turned out no-one was staying in the hut so we were free to use it.  Jaakko wanted to try out a Locus Gear eVent mid he'd borrowed so he pitched up by the river as Ali and I sorted stuff for dinner.   An inquisitive reindeer has us scrambling for the camera, just before we tucked into a venison dinner.

Several of the Finnish huts have two halves - a reservation side to be booked in advance and an open side that's first come first served. They're surprisingly well equipped including chopped wood for the stove and several have been recently equipped with gas stoves.  Stove on, meal rehydrating and we were soon snuggled into sleeping bags after a long and tiring day.

Day 2 - Kuonjarjohka-Meekonjärvi-Porojärvi
A clear morning saw us heading north gaining more height until what appeared to be the whole of Lapland stretched out before our eyes.  The last remnants of snow clung to the north-facing ridge behind us but before us lay miles and miles of untouched wilderness.  The stream that ran past last nights camp squirmed its way out on to a vast plateau, a couple of the lakes that were to be our destination stretched themselves out in the distance.  In the distance on the horizon was another ridge that marked the watershed into Norway we'd be aiming for in a few days time.

Gaining further height we dropped over a ridge to see the profile of Saivaara Caivarri a kind of miniature Finnish Suiliven  - rising proudly from the plateau, flanking the string of lakes along which we would be packrafting.



The light was kind and as we approached Meekonjärvi at the west end of the lakes we lunched by some fishing huts while admiring a rainbow.  It was finally time to take advantage of the extra weight and inflate our rafts.  A few minutes later we'd lashed our packs to the bow were finally on the water- this is what we were here for.

The sunshine was punctuated by dark clouds which threatened and added to the sense of fragility in such a emote landscape.  The wind whipped up a few small waves but was thankfully in our direction.

Our route was actually along a string of long lakes, each joined by an outflow that dropped a few metres, though the low water level meant we were pushing and scraping across rocks  A couple of times we were forced to step out, drag our boats to the shore and navigate between them on foot.

After at the end of the third lake we could see the small hut at Porojävri that Jaakko had pre-booked at the last minute.  With two bunks, a wooden stove and a small gas stove we were set for the night and being able to dry our gear.

Day 3 -Porojärvi-Poroharju-Harrejavri

Back on the water the wind was a little stronger and waves a little higher, but thankfully not against us. Negotiating another outflow, a couple of shoves of the paddle saw us over a few rocks and into the next channel.  Eventually we joined a larger river but it was time to get back to hiking.  Landing in a small bay we dragged our rafts over the dwarf birch and grabbed some coffee and lunch before re-packing and heading east on foot.


With no paths the going was tough - we were traversing ground that was higher to the north so were continually rising and falling, crossing each minor water course that meant tramping through bogs.  Eventually I'd recognise that dwarf birch giving way to mini birch and willow indicating the next boggy bit.  The sky darkened and drizzle added to the sense of desolation as we looked back to the peaks we;d left we could still see remnants of the last winter. To the south a plateau stretched out, riddled with rivers and lakes.  Ahead of us the ground undulated with just more birch and bog to negotiate.


We continued contouring, the monotony of birch-bashing, occasionally interrupted by boulder hopping over old stream beds.   "How far?", "Are we there yet?", " must be over the next crest". we questioned Jaakko.  We longed to see the tiny hut that marked the end of the day but each time we peered over the next crest we saw just more scrub and birch.

Eventually a dot appeared and after hopping across a river we reached the hut at Harrejavri.  Again it was empty so we made full use of the wood stove and a sleeping platform.  It had been a couple of days since we'd seen anyone else - we were truly in the wilderness.

Click here to follow our journey - Lapland Packrafting Adventure - Part 2

To see a video of our trip click here

For more photos see my album on Flickr here.

For a map of our route see below.

Route of first 3 days from start at Kilpisjärvi.